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USING OPPOSITE WEIGHTSHIFT

Standard weightshift is used to give a nicely coordinated turn, especially when thermalling. If you are thermalling right then you use right-side brake and apply right weightshift, which means putting more load on the right side of the harness seat on the side where you are braking. If you are thermalling left, you apply left brake and weightshift left. A nice combination of weightshift and brake will help you to make a more efficient turn and improve your climb rate, especially in a tight core. This technique is used by all pilots and is a fundamental part of good flying. Opposite weightshift Sometimes pilots use another completely different technique in certain situations, which I call ‘opposite weightshift’. I have not heard of pilots discussing this often, but once I pointed it out I realised…

USING OPPOSITE WEIGHTSHIFT

New Products

KOYOT 5/5 P The Koyot 5 and its Plume version, the 5 P, are Niviuk’s latest EN-As. With 39 cells and an aspect ratio of 4.7, they are designed as post-school wings for pilots to progress and gain confidence on. Niviuk say they are comfortable and docile, have good thermalling behaviour, progressive inputs and long brake travel. The Plume version saves around a kilogram over the standard, coming in at 3.2kg for the smallest size (22m2 for 45-70kg). The Koyot 5 range covers all-up weights from 45kg up to 135kg. There are four standard colour choices for the Koyot 5, and two (different ones) for the Koyot 5 P. niviuk.com EMOTION 4 U-Turn say their new EN-A is a good-natured glider that combines safety with sporty handling. It’s suitable for beginners but with the…

New Products

2022全球經濟關鍵報告忐忑的成長

「這是QE歷程上的重大事件,對美國經濟和全球資金環境,都可能產生重大影響。」說話的,是瑞士信貸私人銀行亞太區副主席陶冬,時間,是十二月十五日聯準會利率決策會議後。 而在這一場會議中, 聯準會主席鮑爾(Jerome Powell)做出了幾項「關鍵決定」,看在陶冬眼中,這幾項決定所代表的,是聯準會「全方位」的政策轉向。 「放棄了『通膨是暫時的』這一慣常的表述…;放棄了『等待完全就業後再升息』的思惟,預計明年加息三次…;調高了GDP、CPI在二○二二年的預測,下修了失業率的預測…;三月中結束購債計畫。」針對句句聲明措辭,陶冬一一盤點,並細細品味。 隨後,在這篇題為《聯儲(聯準會)全面轉鷹》的專文中,陶冬寫到:「所有的轉身都是過去幾周發生的,表明美國貨幣當局在退出二○年版QE、推進貨幣環境正常化的路上,已經不那麼淡定了。」 大摩:兩座大山將退場 財政、貨幣政策「完成階段性任務」 「正常化」,這是展望二二年全球經濟的首要「關鍵字」。 時間再往前推,十一月十四日,投資銀行摩根士丹利(Morgan Stanley,以下簡稱大摩)發布了年度經濟展望報告,標題下的是:The Training…

2022全球經濟關鍵報告忐忑的成長
Modern stone age

Modern stone age

The paleolithic period – or ‘Stone Age’ – has an evocative place in the modern popular imagination. It looks both backward and forward, an ancient clean slate from which to project and describe humanity’s near future. While The Flintstones are a prehistoric family, their lives are enmeshed in the trappings of an emerging post-war modernity: domestic appliances, fast food and entertainment. We see this duality emerge once again, between the Stone Age and modernity, expressed in a new Modern Stone Age. The character of these spaces eludes and obscures the hand of human design and planning. The sinewy columns, misshapen doorways and globular window portals appear gelatinous, like extruded, misshapen bone marrow. Form is persistently organic, never repeating to the point of motif or feature. Territories morph and billow onwards, carrying…

SPACE Projects

What’s at the heart of S-P-A-C-E Projects’ approach? PEPIJN SMIT: It sounds clichéd, but I still wholeheartedly believe in the power of physical space. I like that you can really inspire, engage and connect people in an interior. The core of what I do comes from the joy of designing spaces. I once read a dictionary definition of the word space as ‘two of more items at a distance from one another’ – I liked that, and it’s why the letters in my studio name are interspersed with hyphens. You start with objects, then assign them a certain shape, colour or material. That’s also what I learned from studying furniture design. But putting two objects in a space gives them a relationship to each other. For commercial projects, the question is…

SPACE Projects

Which Way to Normal?

News flash: The coronavirus isn’t going to be public enemy No. 1 for the global economy in 2022. The biggest dangers this year will stem from inflation and the risk that policymakers will call the post-Covid recovery wrong. This is the year we’ll find out whether the global economy is robust enough to get by with less help from governments and central banks. And whether inflation is a temporary byproduct of Covid or a more persistent problem. When confronted with a wide range of possibilities, forecasters usually settle somewhere in the middle. Among those Bloomberg surveyed, the consensus is that the world economy will expand 4.4% in 2022, after the 5.8% bounceback of 2021. From 2023 onward, most agree, growth will return to its long-term norm of around 3.5%, as if Covid…

Which Way to Normal?

HISTORY FACTS That Sound Fake But Aren’t

THE USE OF FORKS WAS ONCE CONSIDERED SACRILEGIOUS This widely used eating utensil was seen as offensive to God when it was first introduced to Italy in the 11th century. Oddly enough, people used to eat with their fingers and pointed knives. The number of fingers used for eating distinguished the upper class from other classes. Three fingers were considered to be good manners. The oldest forks were discovered in Turkey, dating back to the fourth millennium BCE, but it was likely that they were only used as tools. The Catholic Church in Italy argued that God had created humans with fingers so that they could eat God’s food, but this didn’t stop the production of expensive forks made of gold for wealthy families. NAUGHTY PARROT During US President Andrew Jackson’s funeral in…

HISTORY FACTS That Sound Fake But Aren’t

Dark Retail

Ambitious developments in the construction of the so-called ‘metaverse’ encourage the ongoing dominance of ‘immersiveness’ as a spatial design strategy that elevates and centres the participation and creative direction of the consumer to define, personalize and edit the retail experience. Partner apps, augmented reality, engaging art installations and in-store gamification facilitate this, knocking on the fourth wall of retail – promising consumers a newly empowered role as both listener and storyteller. In Dark Retail, disruptive retailers are challenging the prevailing orthodoxy, designing spaces that renew the status of the retailer as creative instigator and that affirm the phenomenological stability of the product. The structures and pathways of these spaces are built on and along linear and cold geometries. Spotlights in formations reminiscent of dotted grid paper hover squarely above, or else…

Dark Retail
200 BEST UNDER A BILLION

200 BEST UNDER A BILLION

DATA AS OF JULY 11, 2022 SOURCES: FACTSET, FORBES ASIA BAFANG ELECTRIC E-bike popularity accelerated during the pandemic as people looked to cycling for recreation and alternative transport. Riding the trend, sales at Suzhou-based electric motor and battery maker Bafang Electric surged 90% last year while net profit climbed 50%. It recently opened a new manufacturing plant in Poland to serve the European market. DOLLAR INDUSTRIES Following a recovery from Covid 19-induced trade and supply disruptions, Indian apparel maker Dollar Industries booked 30% sales growth for the fiscal year ended in March, with net profit surging 72%. Besides expanding its clothing range for women, the company also recently added a spinning mill and a warehouse. GIFT HOLDINGS The ramen restaurant company saw sales jump 22% to $124 million as pandemic restrictions lifted in Japan, bringing customers to…

The Choice

The differences begin to fade a bit as one drives down Texas Highway 4, between the Gulf of Mexico and the Rio Grande, toward one of the southernmost points in the U.S., where Musk is preparing to launch the world’s largest rocket. Gleaming spacecraft—some retired from duty, others still in production—rise stories above the sparse terrain. His company is gobbling up local housing and encouraging employees to move there. “Creating the city of Starbase, Texas,” Musk announced on Twitter earlier this year, to the evident surprise of the residents of Boca Chica, where his facility is located. (A county official noted that “Sending a tweet does not make it so,” and that a petition must first be filed.) For nearly a century, TIME has named a Person of the Year—the individual…

The Sun Sets on Golden Visas

The Sun Sets on Golden Visas

On a sunny Tuesday morning in the town of Grândola, an hour and a half south of Lisbon, Sandy Chen steps out of an Uber and braces herself for the five home viewings she’s lined up for the day in Portugal’s Alentejo region. As Chen walks down a quiet street in the town of 14,000, dogs bark and elderly residents, alerted by the noise, emerge from their homes to check out the visitor. “If I buy a house here, I might be the only Chinese person in town,” she says. Chen, a retiree originally from Tianjin in northern China, is racing to find a property before Portugal slams the door on a program offering residency and a path to citizenship to foreigners willing to invest in the country. In 2021, Portugal…

Russia’s New Brain Drain

Russia’s New Brain Drain

In Kyrgyzstan, a member of parliament urgently called on the government to start creating jobs and setting up temporary housing for the information technology professionals now arriving daily from Russia. Even a poor Central Asian nation that exports cheap migrant labor for Russian construction sites and fast-food restaurants looks like a safe haven to thousands of educated Russians fleeing the cataclysm Vladimir Putin created by invading Ukraine. This can no longer be described as brain drain: It’s a stampede for the exits. Konstantin Sonin, an economist at the University of Chicago, has estimated that some 200,000 Russians fled in the first 10 days of the invasion—to Kyrgyzstan, Armenia, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Turkey, Israel—any country that admits Russians visa-free. That’s a small number compared with the 2.8 million refugees who’ve left Ukraine, but…

THE MEASURE OF THINGS

THE MEASURE OF THINGS

For details, see Resources. A COUPLE OF WINTERS AGO, WHEN Herb Sambol decamped from Manhattan to a tiny Palm Beach bungalow, he was trying it on for size—literally, and without even realizing it. Already the owner of two stunning homes in New York (a 1,700-square-foot aerie in a Richard Meier–designed glass-and-steel downtown tower, as well as a four-bedroom Sag Harbor residence), the real estate entrepreneur was not shopping for a third home, much less one the size of a studio apartment. But the “cozy cabin,” a short drive from the stable where Sambol keeps two horses, grew on him. At the end of his rental period, when he heard it was going on the market, he asked the owners to sell it to him. Sambol enlisted architect Lee F. Mindel, with whom…

SNOW FUN IS THE BEST FUN

SNOW FUN IS THE BEST FUN

Groundhandling. Pull up, stabilise, turn around, tilt the wing to one side, collapse it, control it, move with it, stay centred, move forwards, feel the wind, balance on one foot, feel the pressure, play with the brakes, turn, pull, collapse, control. These, and much more, are a standard part of any good paragliding groundhandling training day, and over time will result in giving the pilot a high level of confidence both on the ground and in flight. Sometimes though it takes a little effort to practise these exercises after a great day’s flying, or to look for the best place to unpack the glider just for groundhandling when the weather is not right for flying. But what if you could do these training exercises at speed on skis on the snow…

The Price Of Pompeii

The Price Of Pompeii

I was standing in the main street of Pompeii, Italy, on a cool November day in 1992. The Via dell’Abbondanza – the street of abundance – a broad avenue running north-south through the ruined city, was completely empty save for me. There was not a single person between the brooding hulk of Mount Vesuvius off in the distance and me. It felt more abandoned than abundant, but I didn’t mind. I’d first read about the city of Pompeii as a ten year old. An ancient Roman city smothered one night in 79 CE in a thick blanket of ash when Vesuvius erupted and killed most of its inhabitants. It had seemed like a mythological place, not a place I would ever get to visit myself. Years later, here I was. The…

Wise Animals I Have Known

Most of my life has been spent in getting to know animals. When I was five or six the animal was an ol’ houn’-dawg – one of the wisest persons in the world I thought at the time. I may have been right. Later it was rabbits, guinea pigs, white mice. Then in my adult life as a naturalist it has been deer, raccoons, skunks, foxes and a long parade of other wild animals observed in close intimacy outdoors. If I live to be 80 and still greet the mornings with a praise like prayer, it will be because I knew animals. They are very close, said Saint Francis, to the paternal heart of God. I think they must be. By instinct, an animal puts infinite trust in life. This morning at…

Wise Animals I Have Known
Pomegranate Revered Since Antiquity

Pomegranate Revered Since Antiquity

Since ancient times, I, the esteemed pomegranate (Punica granatum), have been regarded with reverence as a symbol of your human central beliefs. In many cultures and virtually every religion, I have come to represent life and death, fertility and marriage, beauty and abundance. Why, you may ask? It all has to do with my seeds (my name means ‘apple with many seeds’), while my orb shape and crown of sepals take on a different meaning all together. Buddhists revere me as one of the three blessed fruit (the other two are peach and citrus); in some Hindu traditions I’m a symbol of prosperity and fertility, while for Muslims I’m a symbol of beauty. As a romantic symbol I have featured in sonnets and literature, as well as Renaissance paintings. Sandro Botticelli and…

THE COLOUR OUTSIDE LINES

‘Dare to use colour in interiors,’ was designer India Mahdavi’s advice to the audience of a May Copenhagen event on colour by Danish brand Montana Furniture. ‘One colour is never enough. It needs to be offset with others to even be noticed – the more colours, the merrier. Look at them as friends who enter into a conversation.’ Her one regret? Not having applied more vibrancy throughout her career. Mahdavi joined textile and colour designer Margrethe Odgaard and colour psychologist Karen Haller in sharing their insights on making full use of the spectrum in product and spatial design, with Frame founder Robert Thiemann as moderator. Arguably best known for the pink Gallery restaurant at London’s Sketch, Mahdavi is now a colour connoisseur. She came up with the millennial pink hue –…

THE COLOUR OUTSIDE LINES
THE FUTURE OF TECH

THE FUTURE OF TECH

Every day, it seems, a new techy term pops up, leaving us non-techies asking questions in what sounds like a foreign language. “What is an NFT?” for example. And “Where, exactly, is the metaverse?” If you’re confused, you’re not alone. While it might feel as if technology is speeding up, it follows a predictable formula called Moore’s Law, which has correctly predicted the pace of human advancements in technology for nearly six decades. Moore’s Law suggests that the number of transistors on a computer chip will double about every two years. This is a reliable indicator of how much and how quickly technology will change. And while Moore’s Law has held true for all this time, it hasn’t stopped other key trends in tech from accelerating far faster than computer chips can…

Beware The ANTI-CLIMAX

Beware The ANTI-CLIMAX

Picture the scene: you’ve spent years working towards a specific goal. You’ve put in countless hours of work and made many sacrifices, but now you’ve got there it’s not how you imagined. Instead of celebration, elation and pride, you feel emptiness, confusion and doubt. Welcome to the anti-climax. The often-experienced but seldom-discussed downside of achieving life’s biggest milestones. Many of us work tirelessly towards our goals. We may spend our lives dreaming of the day we get married, publish our first book or purchase our first home. However, often, when we achieve these things it doesn’t feel quite as expected. In fact, the achievement of these goals feels a bit of a letdown. So why do we often experience an anti-climax when achieving big goals? “An anti-climax can be an unexpected by-product…

December

Don’t miss… THE BOY, THE FOX, THE MOLE AND THE HORSE Gather round the box this Christmas for an animated adaptation of Charlie Mackesy’s bestselling story The Boy, the Fox, the Mole and the Horse. Many of us first encountered Charlie’s exquisite illustrations during the pandemic, their simple messages of hope catching our imagination. Idris Elba stars as the voice of the fox, Tom Hollander the mole and Gabriel Byrne the horse in this heartwarming fable about the search for home. This is the Christmas cheer we all need. On BBC One and iPlayer. MEET THE… Lord OF Misrule Throwing a Christmas party? You might like to employ a Lord of Misrule to oversee festivities. This jolly Christmas character first appeared in the 14th century – in the guise of a farm worker in…

December
Tripped Up

Tripped Up

MILLIONS OF PAIRS OF UNSOLD Yeezys are sitting in purgatory, stacked in warehouses from the US to China. Sneakers—some looking like cozy turtleneck sweaters for your feet, others like they’ve grown teeth on their soles or solidified into pillowy clouds—that once would’ve sold out in limited-edition drops, often flipped for much more on StockX and Goat, now await their fate seven months after one of the biggest corporate meltdowns in history. Their owner, Adidas AG, couldn’t decide what to do with all the tarnished merchandise created by the man who was, until recently, its most prominent business partner: Kanye West, who now goes by Ye. The total value of these sneakers: about $1.3 billion. At Adidas headquarters in the medieval town of Herzogenaurach, Germany, senior executives have spent months mulling their…

Elon Musk

THE RICHEST MAN IN THE WORLD DOES NOT OWN a house and has recently been selling off his fortune. He tosses satellites into orbit and harnesses the sun; he drives a car he created that uses no gas and barely needs a driver. With a flick of his finger, the stock market soars or swoons. An army of devotees hangs on his every utterance. He dreams of Mars as he bestrides Earth, square-jawed and indomitable. Lately, Elon Musk also likes to live-tweet his poops. “Just dropping some friends off at the pool,” the 50-year-old zillionaire informed his 66 million Twitter followers on the evening of Nov. 29, having previously advised that at least half his tweets were “made on a porcelain throne.” After an interval—21 minutes, if you must know—an update:…

Elon Musk

Al Artists Are Taking Commissions

For the past several months, people in and around the tech industry have been marveling at a tool for creating automated images. Called Dall-E (derived from the names of the surrealist artist Salvador Dalí and the cartoon robot Wall-E), the software produces original pictures from text prompts of as many as 400 characters or images that users upload. Someone might ask for a portrait of Shrek in the style of the Mona Lisa, or upload a file of the painting Girl With a Pearl Earring and ask Dall-E to imagine it as a behind-the-scenes glimpse at a fashion shoot starring its subject. Like many successful products that come from Silicon Valley startups, Dall-E became a phenomenon during a testing period when it was available to only a relatively small group. The…

Al Artists Are Taking Commissions
Objets de désir

Objets de désir

Make Megaprojects More Modular

AUTHOR WITH CLIMATE change forcing the pace, many sectors are contemplating major changes in technology and basic infrastructure. The oil- and coal-fired power generators of the last century are giving way to wind farms and solar arrays. Fossil-fueled cars and networks of gas stations may soon be consigned to history. In almost every industry, large capital investments will need to be made, and with them will come big risks. I’ve researched and consulted on megaprojects for more than 30 years, and I’ve found that two factors play a critical role in determining whether an organization will meet with success or failure: replicable modularity in design and speed in iteration. If a project can be delivered fast and in a modular manner, enabling experimentation and learning along the way, it is likely to…

Make Megaprojects More Modular
Titans of fire

Titans of fire

I have long wondered why Antares (Alpha [α] Scorpii) gets to be the Rival of Mars — Ares is the Greek name for the Roman god Mars, so Antares (“Anti-Ares”) is essentially named “Anti-Mars.” But the Red Planet also battles Betelgeuse (Alpha Orionis) and Aldebaran (Alpha Tauri) — both are of similar brightness and color. This month, you can see the fight for yourself as Mars marches off to war against these two titans at nightfall. The three scarlet sentinels all shine around 1st magnitude and are within about 35° of one another. When March opens, they form a line to the southeast. By midmonth, eastward-moving Mars will have bent that line into a shield. Then, by month’s end, the three will morph into a spearhead, with Betelgeuse at the tip. A…

THE BANK ROBBER ON THE BICYCLE

THE MAN IN THE BASEBALL CAP and sunglasses waited for the teller to notice him. The morning of May 26, 2000, was quiet inside the LaSalle Bank in Highland Park, Illinois, a suburb of Chicago. “May I help you?” said the young woman behind the counter. The man reached to the back of his khaki pants as if to fish out a wallet. Instead, he presented her with an index card. The teller’s smile wilted as she stared at the words: ‘THIS IS A ROBBERY. PUT ALL OF YOUR MONEY IN THE BAG.’ The robber, a slender man wearing a smart blue oxford shirt, returned the card to his pocket. “Nice and easy,” he said coolly, handing over a plastic shopping bag. While the teller anxiously transferred bundles of cash, the man…

THE BANK ROBBER ON THE BICYCLE

9 THINGS With Hidden GLUTEN

In the last ten years, ‘gluten’ has become a buzzword – and a bit of a dietary demon. For most people, gluten – a protein found in many types of grains – is totally harmless. But for others, foods with gluten can cause a number of problems ranging from abdominal discomfort, diarrhoea and bloating, to anxiety and fatigue. “Gluten is a challenge to our guts because it can be hard to digest,” says nutritionist Beth Trimark-Connor. “In people with coeliac disease, gluten damages cells in the intestine and provokes an attack response from the immune system. When the immune response doesn’t stop attacking the gluten, it may turn on the body itself.” Some people without coeliac or a gluten intolerance or sensitivity have reported experiencing benefits from going gluten free, including decreased…

9 THINGS With Hidden GLUTEN
The Pandemic Lit Up Our Village

The Pandemic Lit Up Our Village

In late March last year, just a month after Pakistan’s first reported case of COVID-19, I returned to my village, Shujghal. The village sits at the highest peak of the Hindu Kush mountain range in the eastern valley of Tirich Mir. It is comprised of just 16 houses, and each one belongs to members of my family. As is the case during the winter months, when resources are more scarce in the villages, most of us head to cities such as Islamabad, Peshawar and Lahore. I teach English at a private school in Peshawar but the COVID-19 lockdown meant I had to return to Shujghal. On the upside, the lockdown reunited my cousins and I for the first time in years. To pass the time, most nights after dinner we would play…

Chile’s Copper Conundrum

Chile’s Copper Conundrum

André Sougarret won global acclaim in 2010 as the chief engineer on a rescue of 33 Chilean miners who’d spent more than two months trapped 2,300 feet underground. Now, as chief executive officer of Codelco, he must attempt another difficult feat: digging the world’s No. 1 copper producer out of its current hole. At the state-owned behemoth, output is running at its lowest in a quarter century, costs have surged, and profit has slumped—all at a time when Chile’s government needs more money to fight festering inequalities and the world needs more copper for batteries and electric grids as it transitions away from fossil fuels. Codelco’s production is down by about a fifth from only six years ago. After a double-digit percentage drop in 2022, it’s expected to fall as much…

La bellezza ritrovata

La bellezza ritrovata

«Il nostro obiettivo è stato creare un luogo dove la quotidianità vive nella bellezza di una contemplazione del passato, del presente e del prossimo futuro»Paola Moretti Il tempo nel design non ha confini. Ne è convinta Paola Moretti, progettista d’interni con alle spalle un lungo percorso – tra Parigi, Londra, Stati Uniti e la sua natia Brescia – nel cinema d’autore, nella moda e nello styling. E ne è persuasa Elisabetta Morandini, collezionista d’arte ed esperta di moda che a lei ha affidato un compito assai arduo. Quello di trasformare il piano nobile di un antico e imponente palazzo – sale e saloni dagli alti soffitti che custodiscono elaborate decorazioni murarie del tardo Settecento – in un appartamento che si ispira a un minimalismo colto e raffinato. Un luogo che, in…

Flexible retail

Flexible retail

We’ve written at length about retail’s key strategies for physical space in an increasingly online-oriented market. In short: create a destination, foster communities, engage your audience. But more recently there’s been another shift that’s less about what retail spaces offer and more about how they offer it. It stems from a growing consensus that fixed equals risky, whether that ‘fixed’ refers to a fit-out or a tenancy agreement. As retail expansion director Doortje van der Lee of eyewear brand Ace & Tate explained in Frame 140: ‘Traditionally retail has been about signing a lease for five to ten years and staying in one place… Landlords are starting to open up to different ways of working together, and creating modular stores gives us the flexibility to pick up our concept and…

MILANO NEODÉCO

Un colpo di fulmine, alla primissima visita, e in ventiquattr'ore la dimora risultava acquistata. «Siamo una coppia dai gusti diversi e quando qualcosa ci trova d'accordo agiamo subito», confida Angelica Pelizzari, proprietaria di questo appartamento milanese assieme al coniuge: entrambi professionisti nella finanza corporate (lei è una delle amministratrici di Immobiliare.it). I duecentosettanta metri quadrati – sminuiti da un precedente, anonimo restauro – si sono rivelati in perfetta sintonia con i rispettivi temperamenti. «Mio marito ama i panorami e da qui, al quarto piano, si ammirano i tetti, la torre della Rai, i grattacieli di CityLife. Io adoro il calore umano del quartiere Sempione, con lo storico parco e l'Arco della Pace, luogo di passeggio e aggregazione». Il revamping è stato affidato ad Alessandra Cervia e Tommaso Calini, partner di Apt.itude…

MILANO NEODÉCO

The New Truth About CHOLESTEROL

For most of my adult life, I usually avoided eggs. I had read that since yolks are full of cholesterol, eating them would raise my blood cholesterol and harm my heart health. Then, around three years ago, to lose a few kilograms, I reduced simple carbs and added more protein to my diet – including eggs. But I wondered what that would do to my cholesterol levels, so at my next medical check-up, I asked for a blood test. My doctor surprised me with this response: “We were wrong about that all along. The best research says you don’t need to avoid eggs.” To reassure me, she ordered the blood test. The results? Same healthy cholesterol levels as before. It got me wondering: how many other people were unnecessarily avoiding eggs…

The New Truth About CHOLESTEROL

1 Can jewellery retail court Gen Z?

We’re in the midst of a major rebranding of legacy jewellers, as it becomes clear that the classic luxury cues these houses relied on for decades are losing relevance for Generation Z. Along with millennials, these youngsters are predicted to garner more than 60 per cent of the luxury market by 2025, according to Boston Consulting Group. Luxury jewellery veteran Tiffany & Co has recognized this with a slew of initiatives to attract a younger customer base. Its latest campaign, Not Your Mother’s Tiffany, is accompanied by a pop-culture partnership with Beyonce and Jay-Z. The signing of 18-year-old British tennis champion Emma Raducanu as its latest brand ambassador shows how seriously the jeweller is taking its foray into youth culture. While these long-awaited shifts in brand marketing represent progress for the…

1 Can jewellery retail court Gen Z?
拜登規則

拜登規則

我們是美國,沒有什麼事情是我們無法一起做到的!」美國時間七月四日晚間,美國總統拜登在白宮南草坪舉辦的國慶日園遊會上,用這段話,為將近十五分鐘的致詞作結。 這場約千人出席的「派對」,相較於七月一日在北京天安門廣場舉行的中共建黨百年慶祝大典,規格顯得迷你;拜登著重美國如何逐漸擺脫疫情陰霾的談話,也明顯少了中共總書記習近平一番警告外來勢力恐將「頭破血流」的霸氣。 兩大強權,一周內的兩場慶典,東方巨龍的聲勢更為浩大,但華裔美籍的中國研究專家裴敏欣在中共建黨百年大典隔天撰文評論,對中國而言,「拜登,可能是更可怕的敵人。」理由是:「不同於川普以侮辱、威脅和關稅疏遠盟友,拜登修復了美國的聯盟,成功形塑一條相對團結的抗中戰線。」 六月,當台灣社會聚焦於新冠疫情,太平洋另一端的拜登政府則是連續出手,從最外顯的地緣政治,到5G戰、科技戰、金融戰,都像是在這一個月內完成了關鍵布陣,上任至今許多曖昧或決斷的背後意義,也似乎在此一個月間豁然開朗,攸關全球政經格局的「拜登規則」瞬間清晰──如同裴敏欣的解讀,這是一套「比川普更兇狠」的對中戰略。…

My Dad and I, REBUILT

Growing up, I understood one thing about my dad: he knew everything. This was our relationship, in sum: I asked him questions and he told me the answers. Is there really a man in the moon? How do sailing boats work? What is the highest score anyone’s ever gotten in Pac-Man? In my teen years, he taught me things I’d need to know to survive in the real world. How to drive a manual car. How to check your car tyre pressure (though the gauge he bought me 20 years ago still sits untouched in my glove box). The correct knife to use to cut a melon. When I moved out on my own, I called him at least once a week, usual ly when something broke in my apartment and I…

My Dad and I, REBUILT
REGIONAL TOWNS

REGIONAL TOWNS

Pre-pandemic co-working was popular mainly with freelancers and start-ups, but the ongoing backdrop of uncertainty has seen traditional businesses de-risk by setting small teams of their employees up in local hubs. ‘Businesses today are looking for flexible rental options that are versatile and highly responsive to changing market dynamics,’ says Kong Wan Sing, founder of JustCo. Before the pandemic, 50 to 60 per cent of the Southeast Asian flex space provider’s deals were with enterprises. As of last December, it was 90 per cent. Sing told Coworking Insights: ‘The combination of businesses seeking to deploy less capital into real estate, and employees expecting more choices over how and where they work, will fuel expectations toward flexible office space to complement primary real estate needs over the next decade.’ In Australia, major…

FIGHT OFF VIRUSES

FIGHT OFF VIRUSES

One thing that the COVID-19 pandemic has made clear is that some people who get the virus don’t suffer much, while others become very sick indeed. And while the elderly have been particularly hard hit, some do survive – even centenarians. As for younger people, whose immune systems are supposed to be more robust, many have nevertheless died of it. So, what factors give some people a stronger immune system than others, regardless of age? What does it mean if, for example, your partner or child gets sick, and you don’t – or vice versa? We know that our immune-system function slowly declines with age. Just like when you see a photo of yourself from ten years ago versus one taken this afternoon, you see changes in your face, skin and…

I Am Mushrooms A Magic, Wild, Meaty Treat

I am not an animal, a plant or a mineral. Take a minute to get your head around what a crafty ‘20 questions’ choice that makes me, infuriating little brothers and sisters on car rides everywhere. “What is it?” they shout, to which their torturer finally answers: I, mushroom, am a fungus. I do keep you humans guessing. I am both edible and toxic, vegetarian yet meaty in flavour, wild and domesticated, a contemporary health craze and an ancient remedy. I can send your mind on a wild hallucinogenic flight. I can also kill you. And I come from a mysterious, much larger organism underfoot that you can barely comprehend. I am its fruiting body, in fact, as it spreads invisibly underground or through the fibres of a log. You can…

I Am Mushrooms A Magic, Wild, Meaty Treat
美國大基建效應全解讀

美國大基建效應全解讀

自從我們建立了洲際公路系統、打贏了太空爭霸賽,美國就再也沒有足堪比擬的計畫,直到現在……。這是二戰以來美國最大的一筆投資!」美國總統拜登(Joe Biden)四月七日發表這段演說時,語氣其實頗為平淡。畢竟,他在一周前的三月底已對外公布這項計畫,今天頂多算是補充說明。 他的後方站著美國副總統賀錦麗(Kamala Harris),再後方則是一片背板。在拜登所屬民主黨代表色藍色襯底的背板上,畫著幾位在高塔上賣命施工的工人剪影,簡單卻精準,傳達了這項計畫的基本意涵。 它的名稱是「美國就業計畫」(American Jobs Plan,簡稱AJP),短期目標是創造就業機會,達標的手段是翻修、興建美國基礎建設;而拜登四月七日的「補充說明」,則成功強化了這項計畫的想像空間,一種史詩級般的想像空間。 他說這是「二戰以來最大投資」,這句話憑藉的,是二.六五兆美元的計畫總額。即使扣掉其中關於「綠能產業租稅抵免」的四千億美元,政府支出的手筆仍達二.二五兆美元,相當於六十三兆元台幣。…

AT 75, CULT FILMMAKER, AUTHOR AND “FILTH ELDER” JOHN WATERS IS HAVING THE BUSIEST YEAR OF HIS LIFE

AT 75, CULT FILMMAKER, AUTHOR AND “FILTH ELDER” JOHN WATERS IS HAVING THE BUSIEST YEAR OF HIS LIFE

CONVENTIONAL WISDOM HOLDS THAT 2021’S much anticipated hot vax summer never happened, but John Waters knows different. Cinema’s Pope of Trash rents a home in Cape Cod’s queer party destination Provincetown every summer, and last year “it was like the movie The Swarm, but with gay people,” Waters laughs. Although the season marked the filmmaker, author, and cultural icon’s 57th in Ptown, the convergence was like nothing he had seen before. “I hid,” he says—writing in the mornings and spending afternoons on the beach. A self-described “filth elder” who spent his 20s making movies transgressive enough to send his parents’ generation into conniptions, the Pink Flamingos auteur sympathizes with the youth, whose decadent and libidinous urges he knows well. “I feel bad for them,” he says. “They’re quarantined and aroused, horny,…

Basketball star Candace Parker takes stock of life beyond the court

CANDACE PARKER WAS ALREADY ENJOYING A monumental run in her life last year. One of the greatest women’s basketball players of all time won her second WNBA championship, capping a storybook return home: the Illinois-raised athlete had signed with the Chicago Sky before the previous season and delivered the franchise its first ever WNBA title. Her media work, providing commentary on TNT’s highly popular and influential NBA program, was receiving rave reviews. Parker was a basketball force. Then, late last year, her journey took another significant turn. On Instagram, she revealed publicly, for the first time, that she had been married for two years to Anna Petrakova, a former Olympic basketball player from Russia who played with Parker on a pro team there. Parker, who was previously married to former NBA…

Basketball star Candace Parker takes stock of life beyond the court
How to Stop The Next Pandemic

How to Stop The Next Pandemic

If you want to know how the world is preparing for the next global pandemic, consider Rolaing, a Cambodian village on a tributary of the Mekong River. For a few days in February this isolated spot became a hive of public-health activity after an 11-year-old girl died of H5N1, the most virulent strain of avian flu. It was the country’s first fatality from the disease since 2014. A rapid response team of health workers from the region was dispatched to the village, which is in Prey Veng province and a two-hour drive from the capital, Phnom Penh. Health workers found a community of almost 2,000 people living cheek by jowl with their livestock and chickens. In just 24 hours they set up a makeshift testing center, identified a dozen of the…

Afghanistan’s Dollar Drought

Afghanistan’s Dollar Drought

Just weeks after the last U.S. troops left Afghanistan, a cash crisis has crippled its already feeble economy. The tight supply of money, along with border restrictions and increasing international isolation, is robbing many Afghans of their livelihoods and driving the cost of food and other essentials higher, setting the stage for a humanitarian crisis. During the 20-year U.S. occupation, the economy was propped up mainly by international aid and U.S. dollars, which circulate alongside the local currency—the afghani—and are used regularly to pay for imported goods, as well as for big-ticket transactions such as buying a home or paying for private school tuition. Shah Mehrabi, a board member of Afghanistan’s central bank who’s now in the U.S., estimates that dollars accounted for about two-thirds of bank deposits and half of…

Escape from the Gilded Cage

EXCLUSIVE BOOK EXCERPT Even if her husband was a murderer, a woman in a bad marriage once had few options. Unless she fled to South Dakota The North Shore Limited departed Manhattan at 4:50 each afternoon in 1891. A swirl of steam and soot enveloped the crowds on the platform. The cacophony and oppressive heat were the same for the woman who had packed her meager possessions in a tenement on the Lower East Side and the one who had directed her maid to prepare her trunks in the parlor of a Fifth Avenue mansion. But the well-to-do booked tickets for a Wagner Palace Car, a serene mahogany and brocade escape from the overflowing second-class and dismal third-class options. A woman of means traveling alone booked four seats across two upholstered…

Escape from the Gilded Cage

LETTERS

What a Surprise I normally read my Reader’s Digest from beginning to end but wasn’t looking forward to ‘Indonesia’s Snake Bite Doctor’ (March) as I don’t like snakes! To my surprise, I found the Bonus Read most interesting with some fantastic previously unknown facts. Dr Tri Maharani – known as Maha – must have saved hundreds of lives by passing on her toxicology knowledge to other doctors. A wonderful lady. SHIRLEY APLIN Roany’s Good Nature Pam Houston’s story ‘He Trots the Air’ (February) brought tears to my eyes. It so beautifully and eloquently reflected her love, respect and compassion for her horse, Roany, and his intelligence and loyalty to Pam. I felt like I was experiencing Roany’s life and dignified ending first-hand. COLLEEN J. ATKINSON Sustainable Vehicles The race to reduce landfill is being won by Dutch researchers who have…

LETTERS
Re-kindling CONVALESCENCE

Re-kindling CONVALESCENCE

A hundred years ago convalescence was seen as a necessary part of the recovery process. The word was part of the vernacular, describing a liminal space between health and illness: a phase when people were neither ‘sick’ nor ‘well’ but somewhere in between. Today the word is almost obsolete and, rather than taking time to rest and recuperate, most people return to work as soon as humanely possible. They are helped by wonder drugs like antibiotics, which, by dealing effectively with the extreme symptoms of illness, con the body into thinking it’s fully recovered when often it’s only part way there. COVID-19 has re-introduced us to the concept of a prolonged recovery, with numerous patients claiming they are not back to full health after more than 100 days. It has also seen…

Hanging By A Thread

Seven people had just plunged to their deaths and 13 others huddled fearfully in crippled cable-cars suspended high above Singapore’s harbour. Any moment they could be torn loose from their frail hold on survival. As the afternoon drew towards a close on the resort island of Sentosa, hundreds of visitors began making their way to the cable-car station for the 1.75-kilometre trip back to Singapore. It was Saturday, January 29, 1983, and grey clouds were rolling in. Everyone hoped to beat the rain. At 5.50pm, seven members of a family from India boarded a brightred gondola and were lifted up over the South China Sea. From 54 metres above the jade-coloured waters of Singapore harbour, the view from the bubble-shaped car was breathtaking. Inside, Manmohan Kaur, 25, her mother-in-law, Pritam Kaur, 60, a…

Hanging By A Thread

VARIOUS ASSOCIATES

How was Various Associates established in 2017, and how has the studio evolved since? QIANYI LIN: We left London in 2015 after completing our studies, and spent the following year looking for meaningful projects to pursue in China. One of our British ex-classmates from the Royal College of Art happened to be working in Hong Kong at the time, and after speaking to them, it became clear that there was space in the Chinese design market, particularly in Shenzhen, to do something creative. We feel that for many years, the predominant approach to significant projects has been to go for a stereotypical vision of grandeur – marble, expensive materials, a ‘Cinderella’ feel. Initially, we weren’t sure if our experimental attitudes towards spatial design would gather currency in China, but after talking to…

VARIOUS ASSOCIATES

What I’ve Learned

JEREMY MYERSON: I was born and brought up in Liverpool as the youngest of four brothers. My earliest memories are from the late 1950s, early ’60s and I really felt that we were at the centre of the cultural universe. It was the time of The Beatles, my family knew Brian Epstein’s family. Liverpool, the football club, was winning all the time. The world seemed to be looking at us. My mother was a college lecturer. She also painted and was a potter. My father was more scientific. He’d studied medicine, but actually worked as an accountant. They were interested in all aspects of culture. So I grew up in a house with a lot of books, music and stories. My father’s eldest brother worked on office interiors in New York…

What I’ve Learned
LAUGHING Matters

LAUGHING Matters

Making people laugh connects us to one another. But what humour endures? For me, it’s personal life stories and experiences. Life, twisted and moulded until you find the funny, will always evolve, and therefore endure. I’ve found that the closer it cuts to the bone, the funnier it is. The beauty of life is that everyone is similar in some way. While we may not have the same experiences, everyone can relate to observations on life, family and the varieties of behaviour we all encounter every day as we go about our lives. Humour is very helpful in everyday life. For example, it can end tense situations. In my life, humour has ended arguments at home and at work too many times to mention. Finding humour can break tension immediately. My…

The Quirks Of LONG-TERM LOVE

The Quirks Of LONG-TERM LOVE

After 25 years of marriage, a relationship problem in my home typically plays out like this. I go to the kitchen to make dinner and see my husband’s walking stick leaning against the drawers that contain my pots. (Ambrose has been nursing a bad knee.) I move the stick a metre over and rest it against the door frame. The next day, it is back leaning on the drawers. I move it again. This can go on for weeks. Neither of us mentions it to the other. It’s just a silent tug-of-war about where things belong in the house. I mentioned this to him the other day, about how hilariously low-stakes the romantic drama has become in our lives, and he countered that, actually, he hadn’t noticed that I kept moving…

大戶教我的投資本事

台股市場交投熱絡,去年新開戶人數創下近年來新高,三十歲以下占比更是突破四成,而隨著大盤一路向上,指數奔向萬七,股民們不分年資長幼,進出操作多半也是順風順水……。這一切,對台股億元大戶、技術派名家蕭明道來說,真的就像是歷史重演。 那是在上個世紀的八○年代後期,台股迎來史上第一波激情狂潮,當時還不到三十歲的蕭明道,很快就在股市賺到億元身價。只不過,當股市狂潮退去,他又很快地賠光財富,不只來去一場空,甚至因為先前快速致富的經驗讓他對市場失去戒心,反倒負債千萬。 或許就是這段歷程的烙印太深刻,如今,面對前來求教的年輕學生,蕭明道給出的修煉功課絕不輕鬆,他認為,所有的操作,都要有嚴謹、扎實、系統性的訓練為基礎,在基礎之上,賺錢,才知道為何能賺;賠錢,也才知道如何修正再進化。…

大戶教我的投資本事

Windows 11: Your Wishlist

I think the biggest sin of W11 is the architecture one. The chip shortage we are in now is serious, and hardware delays are significant.… So updates to W11 are out the window (pun intended) as the hardware we would need to replace perfectly useful machines now is not possible. I see no reason why the TPM functionality should not be an option as opposed to a requirement. Anything that strengthens security is desired, but right now, it is not possible to wholesale replace computers (much less graphics cards). Another factor here is “green.” Forcing companies to junk perfectly good computers, with useful life, to go to Windows 11 is certainly not green. This needs a rethink as much as the interface. One wonders about the marketing decisions at major…

Windows 11: Your Wishlist

Fantastical, PLAYFUL &Rare

FOR YEARS I’VE DREAMT OF my first meeting with Tilda – an actor who, I think we can all agree, has no need for a last name. In the fantasies of my youth, when I first discovered her work while devouring Derek Jarman’s, I imagined that our meeting would take place at a dinner party. It would be filled with an eclectic mix of individuals from the literary, art and fashion worlds, and I would be there as a lucky plus-one. Perhaps I would receive an invitation to visit her family home in Scotland, and would spend an autumnal weekend in her beloved garden – as Nikolai von Bismarck did for this story, shot in and around her beautiful house in the Highlands. But, like so many fantasies, particularly this year,…

Fantastical, PLAYFUL &Rare

Jerome Powell’s Only Focus

Let’s say you come home and there’s a gorilla sitting on the couch in your nicely appointed living room. You are partly to blame for leaving the door unlocked, but world events have also conspired to let him in the door. You are carrying a baseball bat. But you know that getting into a fight with an unruly 300-pound beast is going to wreck the house. You try nudging him out the door without creating a lot of collateral damage, but that doesn’t work. So now it’s clear that some furniture is going to get broken. This is the situation Federal Reserve Chair Jerome Powell finds himself in today. The gorilla, of course, is the US inflation rate, which hit a punishing 9.1% in June, pumped up by higher energy costs and…

Jerome Powell’s Only Focus

騙愛產業鏈

K先生買了草莓蛋糕,讓我們邊吃邊聽他聊最近遇到的這起複雜愛情故事。他顯得有些興奮和緊張,蛋糕直接從盤子上掉出來,讓他有些惱火。「看吧,我就說我這個人笨手笨腳的,需要有個老婆。」 K先生今年7 9歲,已經退休,獨自一人居住在德國的萊茵區(Rhineland)。他的本名沒有人會感興趣,但他的故事卻不然─那是一個不容易理解、甚至連K先生本人都弄不懂的故事。他承認:「事情非常複雜。」 K先生的妻子在2013年3月1日因乳癌離世後,原本的房子對他來說太大了。他和妻子結縭37載,她鉤的毛毯至今還散落在沙發上,用過的餐具和二人的婚床也都還在。他抽著菸、吃著蛋糕,電視機的聲響取代了妻子的說話聲。 K先生是在1976年從《萊茵郵報》上的徵友廣告上認識妻子的。她是捷克人,年紀小他很多。他向她解釋西方世界和整個世界,二人一道開車從紐約到舊金山,旅行橫越加拿大,睡在帳篷裡;回國後,二人就一塊搬進萊茵區的這間房子。他們育有一子,後來變得越來越少出門,一起齊心過日子。 等到妻子過世時,他已不再參加任何運動社團、和前同事斷了聯繫,兒子也已長大成人。K先生覺得孤寂難耐,感受不到愛,內心徒留一片空虛。…

騙愛產業鏈

Stop Screening Job Candidates’ Social Media

SOCIAL MEDIA SITES such as Facebook, TikTok, and Instagram have given many organizations a new hiring tool. According to a 2018 CareerBuilder survey, 70% of employers check out applicants’ profiles as part of their screening process, and 54% have rejected applicants because of what they found. Social media sites offer a free, easily accessed portrait of what a candidate is really like, yielding a clearer idea of whether that person will succeed on the job—or so the theory goes. However, new research suggests that hiring officials who take this approach should use caution: Much of what they dig up is information they are ethically discouraged or legally prohibited from taking into account when evaluating candidates—and little of it is predictive of performance. In the first of three studies, the researchers examined the…

Stop Screening Job Candidates’ Social Media
Our 11th annual STAR PRODUCTS

Our 11th annual STAR PRODUCTS

This year marks the 11th time we have examined the universe of astronomical products to find some of the best telescopes, binoculars, and accessories available. Whether you are a veteran observer or a brand-new stargazer, you’ll doubtlessly find items of interest in our 2021 Star Products. Enjoy our preview of these 35 outstanding entries, presented in alphabetical order by manufacturer. Phil Harrington is a contributing editor of Astronomy as well as a dedicated equipment collector. 1 APM HDC XWA 13mm eyepiece From Saarbrücken, Germany, comes APM Telescopes’ new 13mm “x-treme” wide-angle eyepiece. With nine fully multicoated lens elements set in six groups, fully blackened lens edges and spacers, 13mm eye relief, and a cavernous 100° apparent field of view, the HDC XWA will whisk viewers away on a true star trek. The skirted…

FOOT PRINTS IN THE SNOW

FOOT PRINTS IN THE SNOW

Pam Bales stepped onto the snow-covered Jewell Trail. She planned a six-hour loop hike through New Hampshire’s Mount Washington State Park. She had packed for almost every contingency and intended to walk alone. A note on the dashboard of her SUV detailed her itinerary: start up Jewell Trail, traverse the ridge south along Gulfside Trail, summit Mount Washington, follow Crawford Path down to Lakes of the Clouds Hut, descend Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail and return to her car before some forecasted bad weather was scheduled to arrive. Bales always left her hiking plans in her car, as well as with two fellow volunteers on the Pemigewasset Valley Search and Rescue Team. It was just before 8am on October 17, 2010. Based on her experience, Bales knew that her hike was realistic. Besides,…

GOLF A Game of Life

GOLF A Game of Life

In 2014, I qualified to play in the ‘Cock o’ the Walk’ golf event at a course on Sydney’s Northern Beaches, where players competed against one another according to their handicaps. My first opponent was Don – a former first-grade footballer, who, at over 1.8 metres tall, was all muscle. “Good luck,” said my wife, Margaret, as I left for the match. “Think of it as David versus Goliath,” I replied. I didn’t feel confident. I had played with Don in other rounds and he was a very good player with a low handicap. However, this was a handicap event so I was allowed an extra stroke on a number of holes. We shook hands at the first tee and wished one another the best. “Keep an eye on the crows,” I warned.…

Unwind WITHOUT BISCUITS OR BOOZE

Unwind WITHOUT BISCUITS OR BOOZE

Coping with everything from daily stress to things that are out of our control takes some practise. Sometimes, having a snack or a drink does the trick to manage stress momentarily. But there are healthier alternatives to help you unwind, calm your mind and make you feel better. Here are a few things you could consider trying. Benefits of yoga “One of the healthiest and most satisfying choices you can make for yourself to de-stress is yoga, and it’s kilojoule-, caffeine-, sugar-, glutenand alcohol-free,” says yoga teacher Lisa Rosenthal. Yoga helps to ease breathing, reduce muscle tension and flood the body with oxygen, all of which help to reduce stress’s detrimental effects on the body and brain. She says that yoga is designed to integrate mind, body and heart, decrease brain chat…

THE SQUIRE OF FOOTROT FLATS

In a farmhouse at the foot of steep, green hills behind Gisbourne on North Island’s balmy east coast, an alarm clock shatters the 4.30am stillness. Murray Ball slides from his bed in the pitch black and brews a cup of tea before heading out back to his office, a barn-like building besieged by a Noah’s Ark of livestock. There, he sits at an inclined drawing-board to create another daily slice of mirth and mayhem for millions of New Zealand and Australian newspaper readers. By daybreak, the zany characters of Footrot Flats – Wal, Cooch, The Dog, a cat named Horse and all the others – will have sprung to life beneath the skilful pen of our best-known cartoonist. From a modest beginning ten years ago, Footrot Flats had rocketed into a cartoon-strip…

THE SQUIRE OF FOOTROT FLATS

Surreale

Alisée Matta ricorda ancora quelle foglie d’autunno. Le raccoglieva suo padre, Roberto Sebastián Matta, durante le passeggiate quotidiane nei parchi di Londra, e quando tornava a casa diceva: «Le pareti dell’ingresso saranno di questo colore, il mio studio di questo, la sala da pranzo così». Con una folata di aereo le foglie volavano a Parigi e suggerivano le sfumature di una dimora settecentesca in rue de Lille, cuore della Rive Gauche. Là dove l’alta borghesia amava il bianco e l’oro,uno dei più rivoluzionari artisti del Novecento,l’ultimo dei surrealisti,aveva immaginato una casa di terracotta, ocra, marrone, grigio, una casa ancestrale, sontuosamente primitiva. Tra queste mura, a un passo dallo studio di Jacques Lacan che abitava al 5 della stessa via, e dal numero 19 dove invece viveva Max Ernst, Matta ha…

Surreale
THE GENZ WHISPERER

THE GENZ WHISPERER

CAMI TÉLLEZ ISN’T AFRAID of a little neon. On a recent rainy afternoon, the 24-year-old CEO and creative director opens the door to her Tribeca apartment in a silky chartreuse blouse and trousers. Parade, the irreverent underwear brand she launched with cofounder Jack DeFuria in 2019—backed by $3.5 million from venture capital investors—has a new offce a few minutes’ walk away. But Téllez still frequently works from her giant circular dining-room table, surrounded by coffee-table books. One focuses on photographer Oliviero Toscani, known for his campaigns for United Colors of Benetton, while another, titled The Art of Playboy, is full of the surreal and sensual images that filled the magazine’s pages in the 1960s. The books—and the brand they helped germinate—represent a different aesthetic universe than the one Téllez encountered while…

NO PLACE LIKE HOME

NO PLACE LIKE HOME

Adria Arjona hopes I won’t mind meeting her family. She’s just returned to Los Angeles after filming Los Frikis in Santo Domingo, and her mom and brother have surprised her with a visit. We’d made plans to meet up at an outdoor café, but when we arrived to find it unexpectedly closed, Arjona was quick to invite me to her place, just a few minutes up the road. It’s starting to get dark when we pull up to her serene, airy ranch house, where her family has settled in. Outside the café, I’d barely recognized the 29-year-old actress, who was masked and bundled up against an unusual L.A. cold snap in a cozy, chunky gray sweater; cropped, wide-leg Celine pants; and lug-soled Chelsea boots, her dark brown hair (often blown out…

AGNÈS IN WONDERLAND

The French clothing designer Agnès b doesn’t attend fashion week or advertise her brand—she likes to follow her own instincts. Since she opened her first store, in Paris in 1975, in what was once a butcher shop, her name has become synonymous with an inextricably Gallic look. Her famed snap cardigan has been a staple in the 230 stores she operates worldwide almost since the beginning. Her large circle of friends includes the musician Patti Smith, who often shops in the men’s department. And her philanthropic pursuits are numerous—from her support of nonprofits like Human Rights Watch to the deep-sea research vessel (helmed by her son Étienne) that she funds to explore the effects of climate change. For more than three decades, the designer has lived in a two-story manor outside of…

AGNÈS IN WONDERLAND

Raincoats FOR Change

On a typical wet Singapore afternoon back in October 2013, Dipa Swaminathan, a Harvard-educated telecommunications lawyer, was driving home after working out at the gym when she noticed two road cleaners crouched under cardboard sheets near her home. They were completely drenched. That is so sad, Dipa thought as she drove past. She stopped the car and reversed back to where the migrant workers sheltered, rain pounding down heavily against them. Rolling down her window, Dipa asked the men to get into her car so she could take them to her house for cover. The workers shook their heads. “We are muddy and we will dirty the car,” said one. “I can wash my car, hop in!” Dipa insisted. Dipa drove the workers to her home, where they took refuge on the front…

Raincoats FOR Change
BESPOKE BATHING

BESPOKE BATHING

The experience of architecture happens across various scales, from a building’s situation to its skin, and from the entire interior down to the most minute of fittings. There’s a big difference between selecting products from a catalogue and developing something specifically for a project, something that conveys the very essence of the architectural concept. Laufen has realized the need to add this degree of influence to the bathroom, a space whose fittings haven’t historically received such high levels of customization. Laufen wants to move beyond the role of manufacturer to become an ‘industrial partner’. This means that in addition to offering its already extensive product portfolio, the brand can work with architects, designers and investors to create bespoke bathroom products that meet their individual specifications. Part of the goal of the Bespoke…

ROBOTS GONE WILD!

ROBOTS REALLY ARE TAKING OVER THE WORLD. They’re writing novels – the first was 1 The Road published in 2018, a cyborg’s homage to Jack Kerouac’s On The Road. And they’re making lunch: a robot that can make 2000 burgers a day is being tried out by US restaurant chain CaliBurger. What human can compete – especially given that androids don’t complain or ask for a pay rise? But we are quickly learning that there is another side of robotkind, one that’s all too human. Here’s a by-no-means-complete list of failed attempts by automatons to replace us flesh-and-bone types. WORST HOTEL SERVICE EVER A few years back, the Henn na Hotel in Nagasaki, Japan, hired 243 robots to cover positions ranging from concierge to hotel porter. Unfortunately, the check-in robots had trouble answering…

ROBOTS GONE WILD!
A Masterclass IN LIFE

A Masterclass IN LIFE

I grew up in a bar. When most kids my age were at the park playing ball or riding bikes, I was watching old men shoot pool and play shuffleboard. I saw a bar-room fight before I ever saw a sporting event on TV. I don’t imagine that Dr Spock’s book on child rearing, which was so popular 50 years ago, advised exposing children to dimly lit drinking at an early age. But lessons can be taught by unlikely teachers in unusual environments. All that is needed are instructors with pure hearts. Clear eyes are optional. My parents owned a bar called the M Ninety-Seven, named for a nearby highway in Detroit. Built in the ’30s, it had a long wooden bar that was on the right as you walked in.…

HOW TO PLAN YOUR FIRST BIVVY TRIP

HOW TO PLAN YOUR FIRST BIVVY TRIP

Tom de Dorlodot knows a thing or two about travelling and flying. A professional paraglider and paramotor pilot he has literally turned his passion for flying, adventure and travel into a career. He entered his first Red Bull X-Alps when he was 21, and has since travelled and flown in more than 60 countries around the world. He set up the Search Projects in 2011 to travel and fly remote areas, and has crossed Africa overland north to south, sailed the Pacific and Atlantic, and covered an estimated 13,000km during different vol-bivouac trips. Last year he was back in the Karakoram, where he has flown seven times over the last 12 years. At our Cross Country Subscribers’ Masterclass in November he shared some of what he knew. Here are some of his…

40 ANNI DI AD ITALIA

AD N.79 Dicembre 1987 Piacenza AD N.89 Ottobre 1988 Moltrasio, Como AD N.130 Marzo 1992 Milano AD N.165 Febbraio 1995 Firenze AD N.165 Febbraio 1995 Borgarello, Pavia AD N.176 Gennaio 1996 Milano AD N.177 Febbraio 1996 Milano AD N.192 Maggio 1997 Sovicille, Siena AD N.212 Gennaio 1999 Milano AD N.215 Aprile 1999 Roma AD N.257 Ottobre 2002 Como AD N.261 Febbraio 2003 Milano AD N.270 Novembre 2003 Firenze AD N.272 Gennaio 2004 Milano AD N.273 Febbraio 2004 San Felice a Cancello, Caserta AD N.287 Aprile 2005 Pavia AD N.298 Marzo 2006 Portofino, Genova AD N.306 Novembre 2006 Vicenza AD N.329 Ottobre 2008 Torino AD N.331 Dicembre 2008 Venezia AD N.335 Aprile 2009 Padova AD N.341 Ottobre 2009 Napoli AD N.370 Marzo 2012 Crete Senesi, Siena AD N.371 Aprile 2012 Milano AD N.371 Aprile 2012 Milano AD N.371 Aprile 2012 Milano AD N.376 Settembre 2012 Chianti, Toscana AD N.376 Settembre 2012 Mogliano Veneto, Treviso AD N.383 Aprile 2013 Milano AD…

40 ANNI DI AD ITALIA
IT’S ALL RELATIVE

IT’S ALL RELATIVE

The first time I met Piero Castellini Baldissera was at his home in Casa degli Atellani in the center of Milan. Nicolò Castellini Baldissera, his son and my partner, hadn’t provided much forewarning about his family palazzo—about its likely connection to Leonardo da Vinci while he was painting the Last Supper at Santa Maria delle Grazie church across the street, or about the attached apartment building filled with members of his extended family, or even about the museum and café run by his cousin in the middle of the compound’s courtyard. When Piero’s ancestor Ettore Conti purchased the 15th-century palace in 1919, he enlisted the help of the legendary architect Piero Portaluppi (the husband of Conti’s niece Lia Baglia, whom he later adopted) to restore it. He engaged him a second…

Quick Comfort

Quick Comfort

Cheater’s Mac and Cheese Replacing a traditional béchamel sauce with cream cheese, which melts almost instantly, makes this recipe ultraspeedy. Feel free to swap in other vegetables, such as fresh or frozen cauliflower florets or peas, for the broccoli. 4 ounces short pasta, such as penneKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper (optional)1½ cups fresh or frozen broccoli florets2½ ounces cream cheese (⅓ cup)1 tablespoon unsalted butter½ ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (⅓ cup), plus more for serving 1. Cook pasta in a pot of generously salted boiling water 2 minutes less than per package instructions. Reserve 1 cup pasta water and cover to keep warm. Add broccoli to pot; continue boiling until pasta is al dente and broccoli is bright green, 1 to 2 minutes more. Drain. Return pot to medium heat; add…

THE REAL CHLOE KIM IS READY FOR HER MOMENT

THE REAL CHLOE KIM IS READY FOR HER MOMENT

After Chloe Kim returned home from the 2018 Olympics in South Korea, she put her gold medal in what felt at the time like the right place: a trash bin at her parents’ house. “I hated life,” Kim, now 21, recalls over plates of pad thai in the airy four-bedroom home in the west side of Los Angeles she shares with her boyfriend, skateboarder Evan Berle. It’s early December, and a 10-ft. Christmas tree with an ornament featuring the paw print of her beloved mini Australian shepherd, Reese, looms over the living room. Upstairs, a mishmash of snowboarding awards are piled into a box, since Kim and Berle haven’t built enough shelving to display all the hardware. But it wouldn’t be surprising if many of them stay there. Kim has a…

The Great Amazon Rollup Shakeout

During the pandemic, Wall Street banks and private equity firms invested billions of dollars in startups that rolled up popular brands sold on Amazon.com Inc., betting that the collections of hot items could become the consumer product conglomerates of the e-commerce age. This gamble is not paying off. Cooling demand, increased costs and higher interest rates are causing a reckoning for these so-called brand aggregators, pushing them toward consolidation. This could hurt investors greatly—and may also result in some companies trying to go it alone, only to go under entirely. Many aggregators were inspired by Anker Innovations Technology Co., a Chinese company that started out selling cheap phone chargers on Amazon and consistently turns a profit by offering a range of electronics online and in big-box stores such as Walmart. The…

The Great Amazon Rollup Shakeout
Farming With Google X

Farming With Google X

When Deb Menicos walks a strawberry field, she doesn’t look at just the berries. Menicos, who holds a doctorate in plant breeding from Ohio State University and works as a senior scientist at Driscoll’s Inc., will often find herself counting leaves and examining the small stalks protruding from the base of the plant. These parts, known as trusses, are important because they’re where the flowers and berries grow. “We want a small plant, with compact leaves and trusses poking out—not too long, because we don’t want them to touch the dirt,” she says. Developing a new berry variety at Driscoll’s takes at least five years. It begins with a crop of 25,000 genetically distinct plants that grow in the company’s breeding field near its headquarters in Watsonville, California. Menicos and her…

Backyard observing lists

Backyard observing lists

I’ve always held the opinion that a backyard astronomer should never go outside without an organized list of objects to observe. Whether designed for a single evening or as part of a goal-oriented observing program, having a plan helps you avoid night after night of aimless searching, which could diminish your interest in the hobby. I offered ideas for one-night observing lists in my February 2020 column, “February’s Finest Sights.” But this time around, we’ll look at some extensive compilations of deep-sky objects that can keep you engaged for nights on end. Perhaps the best known deep-sky list is the Messier Catalog. And while it can serve as a single night list (if you’re adventurous enough to tackle a Messier marathon), its 110 entries are better subdivided into a series of…

L’ÈTERNEEL classique

HIDDEN & DANGEROUS!

HIDDEN & DANGEROUS!

Cancer, heart disease, dementia, diabetes: in the lexicon of ageing and disease, these are some worrisome words. But researchers have suspected for years that all of these health issues, and more, have at their heart one common trigger: chronic low-grade inflammation. And now they may finally have proof. In 2017 researchers in Boston reported on a clinical trial with more than 10,000 patients (mean age: 61) from 39 countries that tested whether an anti-inflammatory drug, canakinumab, could lower rates of heart disease. They discovered that it could, but they also found that it reduced lung cancer mortality by more than 67 per cent. Reports of gout and arthritis, which are conditions linked to inflammation, also fell. “In flammation plays a role in everyone’s health,” says rheumatologist Dr Dana DiRenzo. When inf lammation…

Fascinating Facts About Dictionaries

Fascinating Facts About Dictionaries

The first-ever dictionary The earliest single-language dictionary in the English language was known as A Table Alphabeticall. Produced by Robert Cawdrey in 1604, it contained around 3000 words. It didn’t give definitions so much as synonyms; the author’s purpose, he wrote, was to introduce more complicated words to “ladies, gentlewomen, or any other unskillful persons”, so they could better understand scriptures and sermons. The word with the most meanings You might be surprised to learn that the most ‘complicated’ word in English – the word with the largest number of separate definitions – is a three-letter word. Although set held the title in the second edition of the Oxford English Dictionary, published in 1989, with 430 separate definitions, in more recent times it has been outrun by a competitor. According to the editors,…

Rescue ON THE HIGH RISE BRIDGE

Rescue ON THE HIGH RISE BRIDGE

The winds this April morning were giving Wayne Boone’s massive 2007 semitrailer a good lashing. A driver for a paper recycling company in Virginia, US, Boone steered the empty 18-wheeler up a stretch of the highway, to pick up his first load of the day. The 53-year-old driver pulled into the eastbound left lane of the G.A. Treakle Memorial Bridge, known to locals as the I-64 High Rise, a four-lane drawbridge traversing the Elizabeth River. On the span, the storm let loose its full force, finding no obstacles in its path but vehicles, which it pummelled. Boone slowed as wind and rain hammered his windshield. At the bridge’s crest, 21 metres above the rushing estuary, the concrete road gave way to steel decking. Boone’s front wheels met the slick steel just as…

2 What does truly inclusive hospitality design look like?

For a sector that has long operated under segmented price points and principles of ultra-exclusivity, a model that is welcoming to all could mean a major shift in spatial design. Although the wider focus on accessibility and social coherence has seen venues from museums to offices address issues of inequality surrounding race, gender and sexual orientation, the phrase ‘all-inclusive’ still holds very different connotations in the hospitality sector. A recent report by Be Inclusive Hospitality demonstrated that, while progress is being made, 78 per cent of staff remain concerned about racism in the workplace. On the guest side of things, a slate of closures has seen 60 per cent of London’s dedicated LGBTQ+ spaces shut down in the past decade. Hospitality has become increasingly fragmented into smaller, more niche brands to…

2 What does truly inclusive hospitality design look like?
Christmas Cakes

Christmas Cakes

Light, dark, moist, dry, heavy, spongy, leavened, unleavened. All around the world there are many variations of the Christmas cake that started in Britain in the 14th century as porridge. Yes, you read that correctly. Porridge. In 567, the Roman Catholic Church proclaimed that Christmas Day to Epiphany (January 6), later called the 12 Days of Christmas, would be a sacred and festive season. The pre-Christmas period, or Advent, was traditionally a season for fasting when the faithful prepared themselves for the coming of the newborn King, and for the celebration of the feast of Christmas. On Christmas Eve, to help line their stomachs, many ate something called plum porridge, or ‘frumenty’. According to Hazel Flight, a nutritionist at Edge Hill University, frumenty was made from hulled wheat that was boiled…

SWEPT AWAY

SWEPT AWAY

Marjon van Eijk was excited. The 57-year-old from the Netherlands and her family had just landed on the Spanish island of Mallorca for the wedding of her daughter Iris. It was a day she’d dreamed about. The intimate ceremony was taking place the next day, October 10, 2018. Twenty-one guests were planning to gather at a stunning villa in the hills beyond the picturesque town of Sant Llorenç des Cardassar, just under an hour’s drive from the airport. “I can’t wait for the barbecue tonight, never mind the wedding,” Marjon told her mother, Bets Kasiu. Bets was a sharp, warm-hearted 84-year-old, but she wasn’t in the best of health. A year earlier, she had had emergency surgery on a perforated intestine and now wore a colostomy bag. Hip problems meant she had to…

LETTERS

Working With Robots I found ‘Welcome, Robots’ (June) an insightful read. While I marvelled at the technology, I worried where it might end. Robots may be more efficient but not at the expense of humans – or so I thought. When Mark Borman said, “We’re going through a generational change… in agriculture” and that younger people aren’t choosing these jobs, previously I would have thought it best to encourage humans to fill these positions, not a robotic workforce. But it doesn’t have to be one or the other, it can be a collaborative effort. RAY POULSON The Lasting Effect Of A Golf Game ‘Golf, A Game Of Life’ (My Story, June) resonated with me. At the high school where I taught, the staff always had a golf day on the first day of the…

LETTERS

Carta bianca

«Inizio sempre un progetto con i proprietari che si innamorano di un mobile, un oggetto, un quadro. Qui è stato per la panca di Kaare Klint del 1930» Florence Lopez «Amo il teatro, l’opera, il cinema, per le loro scenografie e i loro allestimenti, e sono fortunata che mi venga offerta la possibilità di lavorare su luoghi singolari che hanno una storia», dice l’interior designer e antiquaria parigina Florence Lopez. Si è innamorata a prima vista quando il suo amico, l’architetto italiano Leo Berellini, le ha mostrato questo triplex di 100 metri quadrati con vista sulle torri della chiesa di Saint-Sulpice e sul campanile di Saint-Germain-des-Prés. La personalità solare ed entusiasta del proprietario, collezionista nel cuore, l’ha conquistata tanto quanto il labirinto atipico e giocoso di scale, passerelle, terrazze e logge interamente…

Carta bianca

NEW MARKET

THE MARKET CARES LESS ABOUT COVID-19 than you think. Recent volatility in global financial markets may seem like the latest pandemic-induced shocks, but there are signs that investors are growing accustomed to the idea that some form of the virus is part of our new normal. At the beginning of the pandemic, investors fixated on the virus’s every move. They pored over data on company lockdowns and vaccine advancements to assess how well individual companies were positioned to profit. The resulting calculations sorted the business world into neat categories of winners, like Peloton, and losers, like cruise-ship operators. But over the past 22 months, the market’s herd mentality has evolved into a herd immunity of sorts. As a result, Wall Street’s worldview is now what finance strategists call an “endemic,” rather…

NEW MARKET

End of an Era

On the day Russia’s invasion began, Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskiy asked in a video address: “What do we hear today? It’s not just rocket explosions, fighting, and the roar of aircraft. This is the sound of a new Iron Curtain lowering and closing Russia off from the civilized world.” It’s the defining quote of our abrupt new world order. Many Kremlin watchers never thought Vladimir Putin would go this far—never thought a man known for winning calculated bets would invade and attempt to hold a country of more than 44 million people. But after 22 years in power, the Russian president may have finally overreached. His gamble has isolated his nation and could, some seasoned diplomats believe, eventually bring about the end of his regime. I witnessed the collapse of the Soviet…

End of an Era

It’s the Economy, Stupide

For five years, Emmanuel Macron has been fending off challenges from the fringes of French politics. It began in the 2017 election runoff against far-right nationalist Marine Le Pen, continued through a showdown with the yellow vests protest movement, and is culminating in a culture-war clash with ultra-right-wing polemicist Eric Zemmour, who entered the race for the presidency in November. But as he seeks reelection in April, the president who was nurtured in the top echelons of the French technocracy has a potential knockout punch: the robust economy. With polls showing that the French are veering right, Macron regularly gives nods to that part of the electorate. He has praised former President Nicolas Sarkozy for inciting a debate on “national identity,” hired a hard-line interior minister, and gave an interview to…

It’s the Economy, Stupide
QB POWER

QB POWER

It was only a matter of time before the realization struck the upper crust of NFL quarterbacks: WE DON’T HAVE TO SIT QUIETLY AND HOPE OUR WOEBEGONE FRANCHISE FINALLY FIGURES OUT HOW TO BUILD A ROSTER. WE DON’T HAVE TO KEEP UP THE FAÇADE THAT WE’RE MERELY EMPLOYEES. THERE’S NO NEED FOR US TO SQUANDER OUR ATHLETIC PRIMES. It took three superstar quarterbacks, over seven days in January, to embrace the notion that they no longer have to be anchored to a franchise for life. Aaron Rodgers’s MVP season—which had started with an unfulfilled request for upgraded receivers—ended with an upset loss to the Bucs on Championship Sunday; in a postgame press conference laced with subtle, coded messages, he talked about a future in which he’d no longer be part of…

BUFF in the buff

BUFF in the buff

The Stratofortress, Boeing’s strategic bomber whose long career shows no signs of ending, has proven a versatile platform. Among its many roles, one of the most colorful was the NB-52B (No. 52-0008) used to launch the X-15. This early airframe was mostly unpainted during early test flights and with its bright orange trim it belies the B-52’s unflattering sobriquet, BUFF, for big, ugly, fat… uh… fellow. Monogram modified its 1/72 scale B-52D to produce an NB-52 kit, but it is difficult to find. So I converted one of the bomber kits (No. 8292) and dressed it with Cutting Edge decals. For the load, I used an X-15 I built many years ago. 1 As part of the modifications done to the NB-52B, the tail-gun turret was removed. After cutting off the gun…

Don’t Go Into the VOLCANO

Don’t Go Into the VOLCANO

ON A STEAMY morning in July, Clay, 25, and Acaimie Chastain, 23, arrived at the base of Mount Liamuiga on the Caribbean island of St Kitts, ready for their first climb as husband and wife. They had married just five days earlier back home in Indiana, USA after meeting at university. Clay – a handsome farmer’s son with charming, puppy-dog energy – was immediately smitten by Acaimie’s beguiling smile. Like any good couple, they had their complementary differences. Acaimie had always been the worrier. “A realist,” she says. “A pessimist,” Clay replies. She liked order and structure. Clay, on the other hand, was a perpetual optimist – maddeningly carefree and easygoing, always certain that things would turn out just fine. So it was Clay who wanted to use a day of…

More Than Meets the Eye

More Than Meets the Eye

He must have had that nice window seat all the way from London. He looked under 40, medium height, slim and wore a blazer. It was October 2003 when I boarded the Emirates flight in Dubai and found that I had the aisle seat next to him. I attempted a smile as I sat down but his blank, distant look made me stop mid-smile. One of those, I thought. Each time I take a flight, I try to chat with the passenger next to me. Most people are responsive when they’re alone at 12,000 metres. Only those few, who barely even nod, make me keep to myself. So flying has helped me get to know perfect strangers. To a journalist, this could be the seed of an unexpected story or simply…

Millennials, Where Are Your Manners?

Millennials, Where Are Your Manners?

Recently, I was standing at a city intersection with a gaggle of others, waiting patiently for the light to turn green so that we chickens could cross the road. Suddenly, a young woman chatting on her phone bounced past us all and stepped into the intersection just as a car came along. One of the waiting pedestrians called out to warn her, and she swung her head around and snapped in our direction: “Do you mind? I’m on the phone.” For a moment, we all blinked in surprise, and then we started laughing. I believe military tacticians would refer to the woman’s behaviour as showing a ‘lack of situational awareness’. My cat attempting to walk across the stove when I’m cooking would be another example. Or someone ambling backwards towards a…

GET READY FOR: SPORTS CLASS

GET READY FOR: SPORTS CLASS

Two new sports class paragliding competition series have been launched for 2023, taking advantage of the new breed of two-line EN-C paragliders which are coming our way. The Sports-Class Racing Series (SRS) is being organised by British competition organiser Brett Janaway using the Airtribune competition platform, while the Paragliding Grand Prix is organised by Polish pilot Przemysław Czerwiński. Both competition series have adopted a similar concept, offering EN-B+ and EN-C pilots the chance to compete throughout 2023 in a series of European competitions. Both series have said they are trialling the concept for 2023 and might expand beyond Europe if things go well. Sports-Class Racing Series (SRS) “The idea for a sports-class racing series has been around for years, but it feels particularly timely with the birth of the two-line EN-C,” organiser Brett…

The Pandemic Lit Up Our Village

The Pandemic Lit Up Our Village

In late March last year, just a month after Pakistan’s first reported case of COVID-19, I returned to my village, Shujghal. The village sits at the highest peak of the Hindu Kush mountain range in the eastern valley of Tirich Mir. It is comprised of just 16 houses, and each one belongs to members of my family. As is the case during the winter months, when resources are more scarce in the villages, most of us head to cities such as Islamabad, Peshawar and Lahore. I teach English at a private school in Peshawar but the COVID-19 lockdown meant I had to return to Shujghal. On the upside, the lockdown reunited my cousins and I for the first time in years. To pass the time, most nights after dinner we would play…